The only thing consistent is change…
I think even that is not true as the amount of change going on right now is much more than usual.
So to start at the beginning. I have been working at HGS since shortly after arriving in Burkina. It was a very challenging opportunity but the people are great and it was a fantastic opportunity to learn new things. Something I had never done before in an area I knew almost nothing about. I had never worked in a sales/service environment before, having worked mostly in either environmental consulting or in government. A friend of mine said I should leave government before I could "no longer work at the speed of business". True enough but I got it all back here and then some. Working in Africa is harder than anywhere else because the rules are never clear and clients expect you to function with the same speed and cost as you do in the West. Everything takes longer, it's much harder to get the quality you are looking for and of course it's more expensive. Then to add doing this all in French, learning business environment, supply chain etc. well it was fascinating.
Anyway, last year I started working part time. I was beginning to get burnt out and felt like my family was suffering so I worked mostly mornings while Ben was in school and was home in the afternoon (in theory I was working 25 hours per week but was averaging 40 – still better than the 60 – 80 I had been working). This is the longest I have ever stayed at the same job as well. Loren and I were also struggling with him being away so often and last year I ended up travelling a lot too which added more pressure to our relationship. There were a lot of bad things that happened in 2014, such as the Air Algeria crash, Ebola created many problems economically etc, the Mali war, Boko Haram etc., I was fighting with my family over Ben regarding a dental issue (exacerbated by Ebola), fighting with Loren, and then looking at a Christian school in Niamey, the day I sent in my application for Ben was the day all hell broke loose in Niger over the Charlie Hebdo thing. Work was no better as we were really struggling financially and we finally got a GM, and he was so discouraged by the state of our affairs that he left within 2 months of starting. A lot of my friends left, and I was in poor health, then Ben had a bad motorcycle accident just after his birthday. I honestly felt like there was no corner of my life where I felt safe. I didn't much feel like blogging about all that! I think I crawled out of my hole in February some time.
So finally in a "this too shall pass" mode, Loren and I started talking about changes to our lives to make our relationship better/work. Since I first met him in 1997, I wanted to work with him but I didn't have the courage back then to stay. I wanted to build my career and some money first. So I've done that. I have a lot under my belt now and have some cash put away. Time to head in a new direction. So I submitted my resignation to HGS in order that I can start working with Loren on his jobs. It was a hard thing to do. I have decided to stay until end of July so that I could ensure they were in a good state – procedures, HR, personnel in place – before I left. I only recently told everyone and they were shocked. Some clients do not yet know but the word is going around. Ouaga is not so big.
So all the stuff that goes with that:
What will I be doing?
What's happening with Ben?
What does that mean for us? And what's all the crap keeping me up at night
What are you doing?!
I joking described my new job title as "slave". Honestly I have no idea. Not fully true as I am starting to develop a plan. So the basis is that Loren and I need to be together more, not just for 6 months of the year. It's not working for us. So we figured that he could use help in administration on his jobs and the opportunity to start was good as there were a set of 15 projects coming out of UNDP for the Parc du W (the park covers 3 countries – Burkina, Benin and Niger) and the Lungrens are prime to do a large number of them. I wanted to wait till Ben went to Canada before starting with Loren so I was going to quit in June but then true to form, these jobs have not come out in the timing originally provided by UNDP so everything will be on hold til November. I decided to push my end date to July 31 and now am considering discussing with Steve a small amount of follow-on work so I have a bit of cash and other things that I don't have time to finish might actually get done.
So the idea is that when these jobs come through that I will go to the bush with Loren and we, as a team, will work for Clark. This means initially that I will have no salary, have to give up my benefits (blackberry, car/gas/insurance/maintenance, internet, paid phone bills, people to send to do errands*, medical coverage) so that I can live in huts and sleep on a camp cot for 6 months out of the year. Things are not going very smoothly between the Lungren men at the moment so I am hoping to have to opportunity to use a lot of my different skills to help them work things out – administration, project management, facilitation, and as much as my mother might laugh really hard, my organization. There is certainly lots of room to help Clark if he will let me, and Loren but more as a buffer between him and Clark. I certainly can help them to figure out their finances and administration better. And I know I will be calling my Dad a lot to profit from his extensive management experience.
*Note: why do you need people to do errands, have a full-time housekeeper etc. A discussion with a friend who lives here, about how much longer it takes to do anything here and just the anguish over having to go do them. She went to Ireland for a week and one morning had 3 errands to run. She thought this would take her all day, and certainly if she had had to do them here, it might well have taken that long. She mentally tortured herself about having to do it and finally decided just to get it done, but she was pleasantly surprised to be finished by 11am. The housekeeper is because it is really dirty here and we are still doing all laundry by hand, and cooking fresh is definitely the cheapest and tastiest way to eat here (the processed food is very poor quality and taste)
Ben
I started helping last year with the opening of the new Christian school (Life Academy) here in Ouaga. It's for English-speaking missionaries largely but the will allow non-missionaries to attend as well, for a higher fee of course. I didn't put Ben in last year as it only went up to Grade 6 and he was in Grade 7/8. We did also look at Sahel Academy in Niamey, Niger but it is about $8000 per year for non-missionaries and he would not be placed in the dorm so we'd have to find a host family. We decided that Ben stay at the French school until this June.
It would be a little difficult and probably uninteresting to hear the whole convoluted story of how we got to this so I'll just give you the result.
So this year, Ben and his friend Josh Gray and Josh's sister Jessica will all be attending part-time together. Karen Gray (Jess and Josh's mom) has been instrumental in getting all this together. Although Josh is a year ahead of Ben and Jess the year behind, they will do a combined class of 7/8/9 in English, Math and Science. The rest of his courses, Ben will be doing an online Christian school – The Potter's School – for Geography and study skills. It was quite funny to note, how we arrived at that. TPS has placement tests available. I originally had applied for Ben to do English. Since he's been at a French school and doing English as a second language, I was a bit concerned about his level. Ben has a tutor named Joelle, whose parents teach/direct the International school here in Ouaga. Ben did the placement test for Grade 7 English and unfortunately Joelle's mom assessed him to be at a Grade 5 or 6 level of writing. So Ben and Joelle have been working extensively on writing skills, and Ben has improved tremendously. However, I think the Life Academy situation will be even better for him.
We also had Ben do the French placement test… for Grade 12 placement. Having done French school for the last 6 years, he finished the test with minimal errors in about 15 min. So I have decided to have him do additional tutoring in French just to keep it up. So as I've always heard that when a child is brought up bilingual that both languages suffer, it appears to be true but I don't think it's so much. He's doing well in both languages and we've even been learning some of the local language together.
Ok so you're probably wondering if we go in the bush with Loren, exactly how Ben is supposed to go to Life Academy in Ouaga.
The answer is – he's not coming to the bush. The Gray family invited us over for dinner one night and as we discussed some of our questions about how to handle Ben's school (looked at options like he comes to the bush and does complete online study, he goes back to Canada – NOT! – we find a host family in Ouaga, he goes to Sahel, etc. ) Karen and Joel offered to host Ben. I think my jaw hit the floor. The Grays are a fantastic, really lovely family from Boston. Joel is the Director of SIM, a long standing missionary group. He was raised here in Burkina and also went to the same boarding school in Ivory Coast that Loren went to. Karen and Joel are a couple years older than I am (meaning about 10 years older than Loren so they didn't really know each other before). They have 4 children, of which on is at Uni in the States. Josh and Ben have been growing closer as friends through the Youth Group over the last 4 years and has been a good influence on Ben. So Ben gets the "older brother" that he's always wanted (and 2 younger sisters for good measure).
Of course this was still an extremely difficult decision for us, especially for me as Loren goes long stints without seeing Ben as it is. But for me to give up my baby (even if he is taller than me!) well, let's just say I'm already planning my trips into Ouaga.
All the crazy stuff in my head
I just came back from an "apprenticeship" in the bush for a week with Loren and I'm not so sure that starting a completely new career going from air conditioned office/car to grass hut in the bush at 46 is one of the saner things that a person could do. There is so much to assimilate – the heat, the sun/UV, the way they eat when in the bush (sardines and macaroni), lack of diversion (altho Ouaga isn't exactly Las Vegas anyway), and just general lack of facilities. At Tapoa in Niger, it's a pain to shower, the toilets are terrible (and my standards are quite low so these are truly terrible), and we are 10 people in one room on camp cots (not interesting when it rains!). This last trip, we were mostly in the bush as in trees, and grass, not even a road, and water comes out of the same waterhole that the elephants bath in (not totally true as they did revive an old forage (water well/pump) but we had to drive for 45 minutes to fill up 25L jerry cans with water. And my mechanical ability with vehicles is limited to passing Loren the correct size of wrench or a rag when he needs it. So if I break down (which the likelihood is quite high from what I've seen) I'm SOL.
My biggest concern was safety. The day we arrived, one of the worker split his hand open with a machete (I wasn't there to bandage); the truck broke down so the workers had to walk 6 km back to the camp in the dark; a group of the workers, while waiting to be picked up ran into 3 armed poachers; a heavy wind just before the rain knocked down our mosquito net setup and I was bashed in the head with a heavy stick; on the drive back to Niamey we witnessed a bad car accident and transported 3 blood-soaked people to hospital. And Loren and I watched the movie Babel where a woman is shot while travelling in Morocco and can't get medical help. All of this brings to mind that there may be a lot to deal with being where there is no doctor (yes I know that's the title of a book on bush first aid). Then there's scorpions, and lions, and venomous snakes and spiders, sunburn, heat stroke, boils, malaria, typhoid fever, and SOO much else that can go wrong. I can only plan for so much! Clark has a heart condition and diabetes, both Derek and Loren have wrecked shoulders from motorcycle accidents. I still remember vividly our car accident from 2009. So this is a huge concern for me at the moment.
Other stuff: I have to buy a car, one that will survive the bush and I can easily find parts for (ideally a late 90s model LandCruiser, diesel, manual transmission); I have to get a new phone; I have to watch my money because although I have savings, I don't want to see it drop too fast! – I need to look at my expenses and of course look to future plans as well of Ben's schooling and if he will continue to visit Canada every summer. I should probably re-learn how to ride a motorcycle as that will be much cheaper and more convenient in a lot of circumstances. I have to figure out how to keep exercising in the bush and maintaining my health, what to take with me; how to manage my house while we're away in the bush. I have other stuff I want to do since I will have time – complete my course in Management Accounting online, continue playing piano, learn Moore, stay in touch with my family and friends. So trying to work out all the things needed to make that happen and how to afford it all.
Yes this is where the wheels hit the pavement or in my case where the moccasin hits the dirt as my childhood fantasy of being Pocahontas running through the forest is about to meet its evil twin I think!
And though Ben will be in Ouaga living with a caring family, it does not preclude something from happening. We have elections coming up in October which could prove to be volatile leading up to that. (We will likely be in Ouaga until late-October anyway.) And well he is a teenage boy and although he has retained a lot of the lesson from his moto accident in January, life has a way of throwing you curveballs.
Just to add an extra dose of chaos, our landlord sold the house to a woman who wants to double our rent starting beginning of Sept. Since we won't be in Ouaga a whole lot, the idea of spending MORE on rent, is not appealing at all. I am trying to negotiate with her to increase a much smaller amount but have not heard back yet. So on top of all the other things I have to sort, I now also have to start house hunting and will likely have to pack up and move over the next 2 months.
So this is a huge opportunity to test my faith and trust that God will protect and provide. Indeed a huge amount of prayer has gone into this already and certainly there is much more to come. He has been faithful so far.
I will continue to write as things progress and give updates on what's happening as well as compile some of my ongoing "apprenticeship".
I think for a lot of people it was a bit of a surprise that I had only just announced our engagement and then like 4 weeks later I announced that we got married. I’m sure you’re wondering “it’s been 15 years, so what’s the hurry all of a sudden?” Well, in reality, we did actually get engaged in April, April 5th or something, and Loren actually even called my dad to get his permission. My father was of course a bit confused by this given our history but Loren’s actually kind of old fashioned in certain ways. I think my father’s comment was something to the effect of “if you can manage her, you’re welcome to her”. Loren offered to send some cows (by DHL I think), as per tradition here, but my dad was concerned about space (cows might not fair so well in Newmarket) and more importantly, the reaction of his wife, and their 5 cats. So he let Loren keep them.
In the intervening months, it was actually kind of touch and go. We had a lot of big fights and nearly called it quits. But we also did some pre-marital counseling and resolve a lot of the big issues, including some of the deal breakers. We decided we would marry – civil wedding in Burkina and church wedding in Canada, but we never set a date.
I had decided who my witness would be. It was a pretty easy choice. Rachel Johnston Nacoulma, was a new friend I had made here. Someone I think has a good head on her shoulders, a solid relationship with God, and… an African husband. As white as Loren is, his reactions are more often African which causes a fair bit of exasperation on my part. Rachel and I would have a number of discussions about our “husbands’” behaviours and the frustration. Here, your witness isn’t just like your best friend brides’ maid. The witness is the person you expect that when things get rough, will step in and help smooth the waters, give you advice. The person Loren had wanted as his witness originally, was someone he respected a great deal but who is Muslim, doesn’t like me, and wanted Loren marry an African woman, I think preferably one of his daughters. So I wasn’t too comfortable with that.
Anyway, we found out in September that Rachel was pregnant, and due to go back to Ireland on maternity leave from Feb til May. So I said to Loren that it would probably need to be in January or in June, as we’d be in Canada July and August. We didn’t get on discussing it until early December when we thought about the fact that Julia, his younger sister would be here visiting, as well as Shanalyn, his cousin. So I think it was just before they arrived, he picked a date based on their schedule, and just one month away.
Now, I think most people (women) would find that quite stressful. After all, there was work and school to finish, Christmas happening, New Years’, planned travelling with the relatives, and then to plan a wedding on top of that might be a bit much. A few things saved all of this. The first was that my only real responsibility was to show up. Here, weddings are largely planned by the men. They do all the organizing and setting up, ordering food, getting the rings. Even your dress is pretty much optional. I doubt if anyone would have remarked should I have shown up in work clothes. It would have been chalked up to my being white (or being with Loren, which also comes with a lot of margin). The one thing that could have been a problem was the fact that you have to post notification of your marriage on the City Hall for one month but you need to provide all your papers to get that started. In usual Loren fashion, where he gets away with the most incredible things, they waived the need for the papers, copies of our passports would do, and we only posted for 3 weeks, not 4. Loren joked that it was good thing it was being posted in Koubri so none of my Ouaga boyfriends would come down there and read it so they couldn't object. I responded that it was good for it to be in writing only as none of his girlfriends could read.
Actually the spreading of the news was part of the problem, that being because Loren is 1) very well known, and 2) an infamous bachelor. If he told everyone, and we had it in Ouaga, we could have expected over 1000 people to show up. So we kept it super quiet. I don’t have a huge number of friends here but I think I invited about 10 or so people. With that we still had about 140 people. So my only concern, besides getting my original birth certificate (and Ben’s so we didn’t need to do blood tests) was to get a dress.
Because of Christmas and New Year’s, every tailor in town worth talking to was busy. Actually that time of year is huge for weddings as well for 2 reasons: 1) everyone comes home at that time of year anyway/ or is on holidays and 2) because you are nearly 100% certain that it will neither rain, nor be over 40oC. As it was, it was 37oC the day of our wedding and it did rain 3 days later, which is slightly more common than snow in July in Toronto. Needless to say, tailors are very busy. There are wedding shops in Ouaga but they aren’t as numerous nor as well stocked as North American ones. We did find some material at one of the European textiles stores, but then found a little shop that provided material and had wedding catalogues they said they could copy. I already had a design in mind, and we found a cool, blue coloured material, that was slightly stretchy. After looking through catalogues, we revised the design slightly so it would be more similar to something they knew already (Burkinabe are famous for telling you they can do something, and then can’t). Just to be sure, I had actually ordered a dress online through Victoria’s Secret, not very wedding like, more evening gown, but I knew if I had a plan B then plan A had a much greater chance of success.
We decided after that we would add sleeves which they agreed to do but in hindsight was more than they were able to do. As I put sleeves on my drawings, I started to laugh as I realized what my design now resembled. I pulled out my computer and showed Rachel a scene out of Disney’s Sleeping Beauty, and we had a good laugh calling me Princess Aurora after that. Needless to say, not having a 20 inch waist, nor waist length blond hair, I didn’t look much like her in the end. We ended up changing the sleeves anyway to being open rather than slim fitting to make room for error. So, December 31st we went and took measurements, gave them the final design and the blue material. We ended up deciding to do Rachel’s dress in the same materials so had to do it there as well, as they don’t sell the material. I came back on Jan 7 to try on and refine.
The dress was nice but they were having some problems: they had made the front lopsided and instead of 10 cm wide white in front, it was more than 20 and that wasn’t fixable, and one shoulder too tight, they put the sleeves on sideways, and couldn’t figure out how to make the train attach so I didn’t have to hold it. After 3 visits, the dress was quite good (Wed night before the wedding) so all they had to do was clean it and I could come back on Friday to get it. All good right?
That night I get home and I’m beat. I go to bed with an excrutiating headache and have weird dreams and body pain. I know the signs…. Malaria. 3 days before my wedding and I get malaria. So on getting up on Thursday, I take the first of the treatments and pray that because I caught it early, maybe it will spare me. Thankfully that was true, as Rachel had invited several of my friends over to her house to have a bridal shower for me. In French, this is translated as the last night as a young girl. I had to laugh at that. It was a fantastic party. First she dressed me, as fitting for a woman who will be married to a Gourounsi man (Loren grew up in Gourounsi country). Rachel had some of the teachers from her husband’s organization come and teach us all a few steps from a Gourounsi dance which was quite hysterical – the first part you look like you are grabbing someone’s butt, then you flap like a chicken and turn in a square like the Macarena, which is somewhat difficult, at least for 6 white women apparently, however long we might have spent in Africa. I think Julia has video which I will try to get burned. They very kindly gave us a 9 out of 10 for our efforts at which point Rachel explained to us that they normally teach pre-school children so it was on that scale we were probably being rated.
Following the dancing, I was dressed for my wedding in toilet paper, and a back up dress, also in toilet paper was put on my friend Ineke. Mine was definitely prettier but it fell off which isn’t optimal for the wedding so Ineke’s dress won. We then had dinner, and then the ladies each wrote me a piece of advice or prayer on a scrap of paper that I got to take home.
So Friday. The night before the wedding. I didn’t go to work til afternoon, as I still had malaria. My boss was arriving at the airport and he called just before he was supposed to get on the plane in Ghana to come to Ouaga, only to find out that the agent had booked the tickets in the wrong direction and he was booked that day to fly from Ouaga to Ghana instead. We sorted that quickly, thankfully but not what you want as last minute stress. It gets better. At 6pm, thinking I was just picking up my dress, I show up at the tailors and she says the dreaded words, right after greeting me – Madame, there has been a problem. Apparently when they dry-cleaned the dress, the lining shrank. They ended up having to pull the skirt and sleeves apart and starting over with a new liner. When I put the dress on it was like they had never measured me in the first place. I rapidly text Rachel, who also has to pick up hers, and say “BRING THE TOILET PAPER?!” Her dress, or rather the jacket was also completely wrong and we spent nearly 4 hours together at the tailor’s until he got it sorted. They can’t figure out how to attach the train so we just cut it off right there. I didn’t have my shoes with me so she didn’t have any idea how much to cut so we had to wait until wedding day to see how long it still was. Rachel recounted to me all the unbelievable things that had gone completely wrong at her wedding but how she had a great day anyway.
Exhausted we then joined Loren at a maquis where he had filet of antelope grilling away and had a couple now badly needed drinks.
Wedding day was fantastic regardless. Rachel surprised me with a couple beautiful bouquets which I didn’t think of until Friday night after the bar but really didn’t care at that point. Getting dressed with shoes I realize my dress is still 6 inches too long at the back but it’s too late to do anything. We arrived early to the City Hall in Koubri but as it we drove with the windows down, I was quite windblown on arrival. I decide I need to go to the bathroom and realize abruptly that this was now going to require some significant logistical genius. I hadn’t taken into account 2 things: that any toilet I would have access to at that point would be a dirt hole in the ground, and that I could not just lift my skirt as it was skin tight to the knee – I would have to hold it up and pull it down at the same time. I was suddenly grateful there was no train! TMI I’m sure. I decided to hold it and worry later.
Clark and Carol, Ben, Julia and Shan nearly arrived late as Clark went to the Prefecture instead for some reason and Loren’s witness, showed up 2 minutes before as well. So we all go in without any sort of ceremony and plop ourselves down. The Deputy Mayor officiated the ceremony. She was quite serious in nature but there is always an undertone of amusement in any African in my experience. She made the day even more fun, and certainly for me took a lot of the stress off. She first needs to confirm that all the names are correct especially because most of the names are not Burkinabe and fairly confusing. So my father’s name, written in capitals on my birth certificate went from Gerald to Geralo and my name as always was spelled with an s instead of z. Elisabeth is the French.
So having corrected this, she starts by telling us that all the things that we have complied with, documents provided etc and what we have agreed to. In Burkina you can chose Monogamy or Polygamy (uh we chose monogamy) and if your stuff becomes shared or is separate. As we are both responsible for large companies and potential liability in large sums, we agreed to separate belongings (biens separé). She reads out Loren’s name, family etc and birthdate (Sept 29, 1977 – or in French 77 is 60- 17 – soixante dix-sept). She reads mine and thinks she has read the year wrong so says my birthdate year as soixante dix neuf, or 1979 instead of 69. We correct her, and she looks at us as though we are crazy and again reads it as 79. We correct her again, she looks at me, shakes her head and continues. I’m okay with that!
Seeing everything in order she proceeds to read the law. As she put it, you need to hear it, understand it and agree with it or we stop now. Because “once we attach it, we cannot undo, no matter how tight” (quand on attache, on peut pas detacher, meme si il serre). Loses something in translation but made me laugh. I found it interesting the things they put in the law, such as fidelity is required by law and even under polygamy there are procedures to follow. Not sure what the penalty would be… it is civil law after all. Finally she required that we stand up and say our vows. She told us to hold right hands. Loren takes my hand, looks me in the eye and says “Bonjour!” as if greeting me for the first time. She requires us to say Present when she says our name and when we agree, we must say YES! very loudly. She calls Loren first and when he says Present, she tsks and teases, saying “No one could hear that, are you sure?” We proceed in this way with much laughter and amusement. She gives her blessings, and then says you may kiss the bride. Loren, being shy, kisses me on each cheek. The attendees went crazy saying NO NO NO!!! Do it right!!! So he kissed me properly and all was good.
So the Deputy gave her blessings and warnings to each of us and we had lots of photos. Loren managed to keep his shirt buttoned through it all and his sleeves rolled down but after the photos he couldn’t take any more, the sleeves went up, the first button undone and his sunglasses back on his head. At least he didn’t put the ATS vest back on – he was going to wear it.
We went to the maquis/restaurant down the street and had a great party. Even the provincial tribal chief came to the reception which was a great honour. Both Clark and a long time friend, Sami gave their recounts of how we met and the events leading up to the wedding. I had heard of the stories behind Loren's other nicknames: Whirlwind and Break-the-City, but finally learned that he had earned the nickname Sniper when he had returned from Canada and recounted to his friends that Ben was born. They called him Sniper for a person who with one shot can hit the mark.
We had a lot of meat, as we had 2 front quarters of Roan antelope as gifts as well as 2 pigs. That and beer and whisky and life is good. My only remaining problems were the fact that people kept stepping on the back of my dress as I was dancing so I had whiplash and a 6 inch strip at the bottom which was filthy, and I did finally go to the toilet and it wasn’t as difficult as I first thought, even, or maybe because of wearing 6 inch heels.
So we are finally married, and will be in Canada for our church wedding. I will bring pictures of our life here, and will probably wear the same dress. Our rings are silver and Loren’s has already tarnished/gone black, but he figured out how to clean it with diesel and clay. We may get them changed to gold, later. We’ll see how things for the Canadian wedding progress. Preparing from 10000 miles away adds challenges but I also have a more African level of expectations so I think some people may find the whole thing a little strange. Oh well.














Bonjour!




























